Wednesday, 8August, 2012: Smuggler's Cove to Pilot House Marina, Pender Harbor

Weather:  Stormy to sunny.  Winds:  SE 15-20.  Seas:  >3ft.

Now missing the ama support strut, I rigged a line from the bow cleat to the outside end of the aka.  Pulled it as tight as I could.  Best I can hope for....

Original plan was to head south to Bowen Island.  Departed Smuggler's moments before C-mast and headed south in the lee of South Thormanby Island.  Raised main and genoa, both with single reef.

RT dropped back, maneuvering around outside the entrance to Smuggler's and appeared to be too close to the rocks.  Turns out he was and abandoned the attempt to recover Emma's minnow net.  He attempted to raise sail, but had a lot of trouble as MM could not hold the wind on the bow.

Meanwhile, we made 7kts on an east tack into Halfmoon Bay, felt completely in control, but the ride was rough.  Could we do 6hrs of this?  Probably, but why?  Called RT on the VHF and told him we were turning around.  After the above, he was ready also.

About 5 minutes after the about face, RT called, "Wanna go to Pender Harbor?"  "Sure!"  Turns out MM was not ready for another night on the hook in Smuggler's and so she played cruise director and called all the Pender marinas looking for space.  Only The Pilot House had space.  Very nice downwind run.  Furled the genoa and brought out the screacher, but left the reef in the main.  Made 8kts and closed the gap on C-mast.

Pender Harbor was interesting, definitely had the feel of a working port.  Once in the marina, met an older gentleman who had spent 20yrs building a beautiful Norwegian sailing fishing boat in a barn.  "20yrs?" I asked.  He stated it kept him out of the bars wasting his money on booze!

This same gentleman came up with a screw for RT to repair a sail bag fitting that had popped while raising the main earlier in the day!

Easy walk to the ice cream shop, our first since Nanaimo!  By the way, the ama anti fold line mentioned initially worked!

Tuesday, 7August, 2012: Lund to Smuggler's Cove

Weather:  Sunny becoming Thunderstorms.  Winds:  N 0-5 becoming SW20.  Seas:  Calm to 2ft.

The day held a mix for us!  Uneventful departure from Lund.  Initial winds were N and attempted to fly the spinnaker.  Ended up motoring past Powell River and into Malaspina Strait.  Then the winds picked up and we sailed.  Unfortunately, the winds were on the bow and we beat.  We made good speed, sailing 8-9kts with 6kts VMG.

About 3nm from our destination, the water began to get rough, we tacked to the west and something on our starboard side went CRACK.  We were sailing along just fine and did not see anything obvious.  We continued on.  The winds suddenly slacked and died.  We dropped the sails, fired up the engine and turned south towards Smugglers.  Then, right overhead, lightening like I'd never seen.  A flash in the cloud, then sparks falling like a fireworks display and then a shot of lightening, in the cloud headed east.  Wind died?  Lightening overhead?  The storm was directly over us.  We bumped up the trottle.

The entrance to Smuggler's is interesting.  From outside, only big rocks are visible.  Is there really and entrance there?  Closer, I think I see and entrance.  Closer.  Going between a couple big boulders, dogleg to the left and then a channel.  Bay opens to the left, lots of boats, but no RT.  Continue on to the right, past more boats and shallow areas.  Another dogleg channel and another bay and there is C-Mast, far end, stern against the shore.  There is a small opening between him and the next boat to his port.  Going to be tricky, limited space and gusts.  Strider prop walks to port.  Crossing C-Mast's bow and nearly beak to beak with the other boat, I slow Strider and swing the helm to starboard and drop it into reverse idle.  Strider pivots beautifully.  Increase reverse, gain momentum, Strider completes the pivot and backs down right into place beside C-Mast!  Beautiful!

Moving around between the boats, prepping for dinner, I noticed something odd on the starboard side.  It took a moment to figure it out.  The support strut to prevent the ama from folding was missing!  Must have been that loud CRACK we heard earlier.  I found the inboard piece of the fitting broken off in its attach point on the vaka.  I must released the outboard end of the strut when I adjusted it to prevent it rattling/vibrating while we motored.  The rough waves must have shaken it loose and when the end hit the water, it pulled aft, breaking the inboard end off with a CRACK.

Stormy, nasty night, but we were safe and sound.

Monday, 6August, 2012: Tenedos Bay to Lund

Weather:  Sunny and warm.  Winds:  NW10 dropping to O.  Seas:  <1ft

I hated to leave, but RT had an end date to his vacation....

Mostly a motor day, attempted to sail a couple times, a beat to just beyond Sarah Point and then once more around the SW corner of the Copeland Islands.  Motored into Lund and rafted off C-Mast on the dock.  Dock dude was very helpful and but was concerned for Strider as the marina gets busy, a lot of times with inexperienced charter boats, and how exposed Strider could become a crash barrier.  No worries for this night!

Lund was interesting for the soap stone seal head sculptures in the Tug-Ghum art shop behind the general store.  Nancy's Bakery has nearly a cult following, but we found it just OK.  Something different, but not worth a stop on its own.  What it has going for it is it is the only place for miles.

3-6 August, 2012: Tenedos Bay

Weather:  Sunny and hot!  Water Temp:  72

If you have read the Princess Louisa write-up, you know how special I thought the place was.  Tenedos Bay is also, just in a different way.

First:  It is more popular and frequented.  There were probably 12 boats within spitting distance and close to 50 within a mile.  Not crowded, just busy.

Second:  72 degree water temp, right off the boat!

Third:  Unwin Lake, a large fresh water lake a short dinghy ride and short hike way.  Water temp there was also around 72F!

Fourth:  A creek out flowing from Unwin with pools and waterfalls.  Great for shower!  The first time I took Kelly, MM and Emma there, I felt like I had stumbled upon a sorority pillow fight.  Laughing, giggling and general carousing!  Great fun watching this!

Fifth:  RT picked a great spot.  Sun around 0800 and then it disappeared behind the cliff and trees off our stern about 1600, relieving us of much of the afternoon heat.

Sixth:  Lazy days.  Wake up, breakfast, perhaps a boat chore.  Jump into the water as the day heated up.  Lunch.  Dinghy to Unwin Lake and swim in the clear, fresh water.  Go back to the boat for a read and/or beverage.  Jump into the water again.  Dinner.  Dinghy back to Unwin for a bath/shower in the creek.  Back to the boat for an evening toddy.  Bed.

Some interesting bits.  There were 3 large (70ft+) power boats moored near us.  One morning they dropped a mooring buoy off their bow.  What's going on?  Soon a float plane, painted crimson and grey with the WSU logo painted on the tail, landed and taxied over to the float and tied off.  As soon as the engine was off and the propellor stopped turning, two pre-teens jumped out of the plane, into the water and while swimming over to the large boats shouted, "Hey grampa!  Hi grandma!"  We now know what the rich people were doing that day!

Thursday, 2August, 2012: Powell River to Tenedos Bay

Weather:  Sunny and warm.  Winds:  Light and variable, then NW@10.  Seas <1ft.

Almost a traffic jam exiting Powell River.  With amas extended, Strider is 25ft wide, nearly the width of the channel.  Fortunately, the incoming boat was small enough to move outside the channel.

Motored NW, enjoying the day.  Followed the trail of boats going through Thulin Passage.  Rounding Sarah Point, winds picked up and we sailed 7-8kts, under main and screacher, into Tenedos Bay.  As normal, RT was ahead of us, only by 45min and had chosen a great spot in the NW corner of the bay, behind the island.  Our floating dock, stern tied to a tree, was awaiting!

Wednesday, 1August, 2012: Princess Louisa to Powell River

Weather:  Dark, then grey, sunny then hot.  Winds:  Light and variable.  Seas:  <1ft.

0330 departure to hit slack at Malibu Rapids and avoid afternoon up-channel winds.  Dark.  Strider led as C-Mast's chart plotter did not have the resolution required in the inlet.  Uneventful motor and since RT was about 15min behind, slowed upon approach to the rapids, making a 360 for spacing.  Upon RT's arrival, Kelly went to the bow with a flashlight and lit the rocks as we passed through the rapids.  Uneventful!  Great when a plan comes through!

Upon exit and into Jervis Inlet, speeds bumped up and RT left us behind.  Essentially a boring motor to Powell River.  Attempted to sail, particularly between Miller Islet and Thunder Point, essentially across Saltery Bay.  We did see the twin Friel Lake Falls!

RT kept calling and telling of great winds and how he'd had a nice spinnaker run northbound to Powell River.  No such luck for us as the winds died and we motored around Scotch Fir Point and north to Powell River.

Fueled up in Powell River, moored behind C-Mast and took advantage of the ample water to hose the boat off.  Downtown was a bit of a hike but we did manage to stock up and do some laundry.

Apparently there is some confusion between the US and Canadian beer measurements.  In the US, a case of beer is 24.  Apparently in Canada, it is 12.  RT sent MM off to get a 2 cases and she returned with 2 12 packs.  "That's what the store pointed to when I asked for cases!"  Good for him as we had an excess of Canadian beer....

OK a word about BC beer.  Not good.  We used to make runs to Ontario for beer in college.  My fraternity's record run was 37 cases.  Mine was 17.5.  New to beers other than Stroh's or Hamm's, Molson Brador and Labatt's Velvet Cream Porter were worth the trip.

Now, living in the PNW, home of coffee and beer snobs (yes, I'm one), I cannot help but be disappointed by the BC beers.  Even Granville Island Brewery misses something for me.  Part of the problem maybe I try to avoid bottles while aboard Strider.  Glass is too heavy and has too much volume:  I can crush a can.  So, I bought Bowen Island, they were wet.

28-31July: Princess Louisa Inlet

Weather:  Idyllic!  Sunny and warm!  Water Temp:  66F.

After a night on the mooring buoy, we moved to a tiny indentation, hidden from the main docks at Chatterbox Falls.  RT and I stern tied C-Mast via a conveniently placed anchor bolt while Kelly motored Strider around, waiting for an opportunity to raft off C-Mast.  Rafting complete, using both anchors, but a single stern tie, we settled in:

Strider rafted to Captain's Mast in Princess Louisa Inlet

I could not have asked for a better place!  Visible on the cliffs to the left are a couple of the falling streams which feed Chatterbox Falls.  Not visible in the pic are the falls surrounding the anchorage, 3 of which are hidden by the trees.  The fourth:

This waterfall was at our 11 o'clock about 200ft from the boats!  This fall is at least 250ft tall.  Standing in the dinghy, I was about level with the top of the left most rock with falling water.  We were literally surrounded by the sound of falling water!

Just around the point on the left of the upper photo is Chatterbox Falls and the accompanying popularity:

There are 5 tributaries visible in this pic

The boats on the right are moored to a dock.  Those anchored in front of the falls are nearly in the splash zone.

Princess Louisa is a reserve, no fishing etc allowed.  While the water temp was a cool 66F, it was the warmest we had ever experienced in the PNW and swimming we did.  While swimming, and snorkeling, some of the fabled rock fish were seen and yes, they were big.  I doubt the harbor seals residing in the inlet were starved for anything!

Later on the first day here, RT departed for the camp at Malibu Rapids to pick up his wife and daughter, Merry Margret and Emma.  With a reunion and re-rafting, we just enjoyed lazing, swimming, relaxing, eating, unwinding, drinking and de-stressing.

This fall came out of the trees between the two rocks on the right!

This place was great, to the point Kelly joined the Princess Louisa Society, dedicated to preserving the inlet and acquiring more of the surrounding private property.  Four days were not enough, I mean, why leave this?  The only reason is because, further north, Desolation Sound, with alleged warmer water, awaited us.